Demeter Cave House Renovation, Santorini: Past and Present


”An abandoned Santorini Cave House, uninhabited for more than 50 years after a devastating earthquake with no drainage, electricity, or water is transformed into a luxury, bijou bolthole for 2.”

Where it all began

The story begins in the early 1900s. Like most cave houses on Santorini, they decide to burrow deep into the volcanic rock and earth to create a cheap and solid dwelling. It needs to withstand the harsh conditions of living on the world’s only inhabited volcanic caldera, not to mention frequent earthquakes.

In a design that exists nowhere else on Earth, they excavate tonnes of earth, pumice stone and volcanic rock, burrowing deeper and deeper into the hillside village of Pyrgos.

The vaulted ceiling and walls are then plastered using a mixture of pumice, limestone and black igneous rock, stone built-in benches are added as well as recessed shelving carved into the thick walls. The exterior façade faces south to catch the sunlight and provide protection from the strong Northern winds; the walls are white-washed. In this way, they create a perfectly ecological abode, which is naturally cool in the summer and warm in the winter. ‘Remember there was no heating or air conditioning back then’ explains Mr Antonis Ksagoraris, the neighbour who lives next to Demeter Cave House.

He proudly shows us his 30-year-old bucket attached to a rope. ‘We even collected rainwater which we used to drink, cook, and wash’’. Every house had its own sterna or underground water storage carved into the rock. Rainwater which fell onto the roof was guided into the sterna. A bunch of twigs was used as a raw way of filtering the water before it went into the sterna.


The Cave House had 2 rooms, an area for living and a space for sleeping plus a small storage room at the far end of the cave. Ventilation and light came through a skylight and through the door and windows on the front of the house. Outside in the courtyard was a small building which was used as a kitchen and toilet/bathroom. There was no sewerage system back then, no electricity and no running water.



Demeter Cave house used to be the home of grocery store owner Dimitris Nomikos. The store was located just below the terrace of Agios Dimitrios Church. It went by the name of Benizeladikis and was one of 5 grocers in Pyrgos. The grocery stores at that time had rare products and were important meeting places for the locals.

Benizeladikis had drinks like cognac which did not exist in other stores. Locals went there for needles and threads for sewing, chewing gum, sweets, mints and such like. The store also had games and school children would go there to see the games such as wind-up toys and buying sweets at the same time.

The 1956 Earthquake: The Day Santorini Literally Fell Apart

In 1956, a major earthquake rocked the island of Santorini. Many buildings collapsed and those that didn’t were condemned as unsafe for use. Locals fled the island going to Mainland Greece. Houses were abandoned, possessions left behind. Santorini was once again gripped by destruction, despair and poverty.

Maybe a miracle gifted from Agios Dimitrios Chapel

Fast forward to 2019, more than 60 years later and we decide to purchase the ruin. This heritage property captured our hearts immediately. It oozed character, had bags of historical features and was right in the heart of Pyrgos, the island’s most authentic village. Why on earth had no one bought it already, we pondered?

The building was in an advancing state of disrepair. The roof was intact, maybe a miracle gifted by the Agios Dimitrios chapel which adjoins the property.  We are not superstitious but every year we paint the exterior of the church as a thank you, just in case!

Windows and doors were rotten, the years of humidity and harsh winter weather showing their toll. Walls were crumbling and the original stone-built outdoor kitchen a mere pile of black volcanic stones.  We peaked behind old furniture and under ceramic pots and pans, flipped through old cartoon magazines and newspapers and climbed onto the dilapidated outbuilding. There was a lot to be done here.

 

A Cave House treasure-trove crying out for renovation

Our goal was to renovate the Cave house retaining original features, using local materials and techniques, and make the house energy efficient and as sustainable as possible. This was a treasure trove crying out for a sympathetic renovation.  We cannot mess up!

After a number of architect plans, numerous visits to the Archaeological Society in Athens quotes from builders, electricians and plumbers we were ready to start the transformation.  Having never attempted doing anything like this before, we reckon we’ll need to employ local experts, and that’s what we did…

Cave House Renovation Step 1: The Big Clear Out

The first part of the renovation involved emptying the property of furniture, personal items left behind and rubble. Where possible items such as old pots and decorative items kept, others were offered to locals or some was thrown away. The cave had to be stripped back, removing all old plaster, rotting window frames and doors. Non of the original windows or doors could be saved. During the removal of the plaster we uncovered original alcoves that had been filled in with cement. We carefully removed the cement revealing 4 beautiful alcoves cut into the rock.

Cave House Renovation Step 2: Installing drainage, electric and water & making it earthquake proof!

The work was only just starting. We now had to install the basic provisions of electric, water and drainage and tonnes of steel reinforcement to make the house earthquake proof. The property was starting to look more like a war zone than a house.

The whole Cave House was reinforced with steel to make it earthquake proof
The drainage is installed. Pipework at least. We will still need to connect it to the mains supply.

Cave House Renovation Step 3: The Origins of The Design + Finishing Touches

Once we had made sure that all the internal walls were secure, the drainage dug in, the services in place, then we could start the actual fit out.
 
Our design inspiration was heavily influenced and led by the history of Santorini’s cave houses, and we wanted to keep as strictly as possible to their authentic design, whilst adding in our own touch of comfort and style.
 
Historically these cave houses were for the poorest of the poor, where Santorini was once an important shipping hub, it’s badly paid crew could not afford the captain’s houses that stood loftily on high ground. Instead, they would carve into the earth to create ‘yposkafa‘ or ‘dug into the rock’ houses. These original buildings used the limestone found at Profitis Elias mountain, mixed with local earth. This created a sturdy plaster that further solidified with humidity – thus growing stronger over time and proving ideal for a cave dwelling. The earth on the island also contained pumice, an igneous rock that poorly conducts heat and sound, allowing the cave houses to stay warm in winter and cool in summer. 
 
We therefore imitated this as closely as possible with a plaster formula suited to the needs of both the cave and modern dwellings. White and bright for the main part of the house, in keeping with all the exteriors kept white and bright. Although many believe that the white plaster and blue paint seen all over the Cyclades reference the Greek flag or the glimmering Aegean, the actual origin dates to 1938 when a cholera outbreak demanded that all citizens paint their buildings with lime, a white anti-bacterial material, to end the spread of the disease. 
 
First up for the cave design was the bathroom; we wanted to create a bathroom with real WOW factor, but there were many challenges of how to do this given the cave’s domed shape and lack of direct light. We knew that we needed to cleverly partition the shower and basin area, and that how we placed the lighting would play a big part. We also wanted to use wood to soften from all of the plaster and add a level of warmth to the space. 
 
We settled on a grey concrete style plaster to differentiate the space from the rest of the house and give the bathroom a more masculine energy and a touch of drama. Its probably fair to say the plastering of this space was not the easiest, and top marks to our local plastering team who did a brilliant job – with a few strong Greek coffee breaks along the way. 
 
With the help of our friend, interior designer Jen Morton (www.jenmorton-interiors.com) we carefully planned the layout of the space which allowed us to fit in a double basin and double shower area by placing them back to back with a three quarter height room partition. This allowed light to travel right to the back of the room and give a decadent feeling of space. She also carefully positioned the lights to provide plentiful, non-harsh lighting. 
 
In true renovation style though, we came into trouble on the inaugural day of the shower turn on, to find that the water ran straight out of the bathroom and into the bathroom – turns out the drainage incline was in the wrong direction. A bit of hands in the air later we managed to resolve the issue and move on with the rest of the house. 
 
 
In terms of the layout, it was important to get the right balance for sleeping and living, making the former cosy and sumptuous, and designing the living space cleverly to serve our guests. We achieved this with arches, nooks and openings all using the white plaster finish to create seamless yet demarcated spaces. Using minimal furniture but using a the consistent plaster finish over bespoke plinths and units creates a calm and authentic design, symathetic to how the original cave homes would have looked – but with a modern and luxurious update! 
 
We used wood as our secondary material to add warmth and texture, and due to a lack of any straight lines this all had to be built bespoke by a local carpenter, and one with a fair amount of patience. 
 
White and blue was always going to be an inspiration in terms of a colour starting point for this house, which was further confirmed when we came across the original painting of Demeter, the Greek Goddess of fertility and agriculture. The range of blues in this piece then became the colour palette blue print for all of the pops of colour we wanted to add. We physically took the painting with us to seek out the fabrics we wanted to use, and with Jen’s help we had these made up into the soft furnishings you see around the house. We were also helped by Santonini’s Decostore.
 
 

Our end goal with Demeter House was to maintain the humble roots of the traditional cave house, but with the quality and comfort of the luxury dwellings found on the island nowadays. We’ve taken the idea of modest interiors and simple living and elevated it, so our guests can experience a true slice of Santorini whilst also providing the design and luxury fittings the discerning traveller will have come to expect. To the impoverished cave owners who created shelter for themselves and their families so many years ago, we hope that they would still recognise Demeter House today and give their approval for what we have achieved.

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